What is it that attracts the alpinist to want to climb a North Face?
The Matterhorn at 4487m, dominates the Zermatt skyline, the classic ridges are well known and sought after challenges and rightly so, but it’s the North Face that is of most interest to the alpinist. A north wall which stands around 1200m high, technical ice and mixed climbing, one the Alpine Trilogy and one of Rebuffat’s classic six Great North Faces of the Alps as epitomised in his book Starlight and Storm.
The classic north face route ,The Schmid had its first ascent back in 1931 over 2 days, from 31 July to 1 August. It was climbed by Toni and Franz Schmid and they cycled over from Munich to climb the face. Nowadays the best time to climb a route like this is Autumn and Spring, when it is plastered with ice and temperatures are stable. Dave Sharpe and I climbed the route back in October of 2014 and conditions were perfect with firm snow, good ice and settled weather. A truly memorable day out!
Is the Matterhorn North Face on your tick list? What’s your next sought after challenge? As an #IFMGA Mountain Guide, I can help. I offer a bespoke service so please get in touch on truenorthalpine@gmail.com to book your next adventure
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Classic pitch from a classic face. Who wants to climb this one?
Rebuffat’s six great north faces of the alps as epitomised in his book, Starlight and Storm, are a sought after challenge for the modern alpinist. The Eiger, Matterhorn, Grand Jorasses, Petit Dru, Cima Grande and Piz Badile are all iconic, beautiful peaks offering varied and glorious challenges.
Whether you want to climb your first alpine peak or a major north face, as an #IFMGA Mountain Guide I can help you realise these aspirations. Email truenorthalpine@gmail.com to book your next adventure.
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Monday motivator! Who wants to go ice climbing?
Guiding and coaching from Kevin Avery, #IFMGA Mountain Guide - the highest qualification worldwide for climbing, mountaineering and ski guiding - can guide and coach you on some of Europe’s finest icefalls. From the beginner taking there first swings to accomplished climbers who fancy taking on the next difficulty level, I offer a bespoke service perfectly matched to your needs and aspirations.
Cogne, La Grave, Kandersteg and beyond. Get in touch to organise your next ice climbing adventure and BOOK NOW. Contact truenorthalpine@gmail.com
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